Valve Lifter Tappet 9723204GHG

Replacement Valve Lifter Tappet

Roary the Repair Lion says:

Tappets are like feet for your push rods. They sit between the camshaft and push rods, and over time are prone to wear, so might need replacing. A tell-tale sign of this is an extra "tinging" noise in the engine. 

If your tappets have worn unevenly, this could be a sign of other problems. Please contact our engineering support team for more information in locating the fault.

Things to check before purchasing:

1. Be sure to inspect the the Piston, Cylinder Head, Cylinder, Rockers, Valves, Valve Springs and Push Rods for damage and replace if necessary.
2. You will need a new Gasket Kit when replacing this part.
3. Check both Oil Seals - There are two oil seals. Each located at either end of the crankshaft. If you remove the crankshaft or remove the seal, they might get damaged and need replacing. A damaged oil seal will leak! Replacements are available on the model page.
4. Check the second bearing in the side plate for damage - Replace if there is any play, wobbling, is hard to turn or are any noises when turning. They are sold separately on the model page.
5. Be sure the camshaft decompression weight moves freely and springs are not worn out. Clean or replace if necessary. Replacements are available on the model page.
6. Check gears on the camshaft and crankshaft for damage. Replace if necessary. They are both available to purchase on the model page.

Rebuild Tips:

When replacing the Crankcase it is advised to fit a new Gasket Kit to ensure the engine is sealed correctly.

A) Always oil all internal parts as you install them. Do not oil the gaskets or oil seals.

B) Fit the oil sensor. Be sure it is sitting in the groove correctly.

C) Install the governor and governor arm shaft. Be sure the governor clip, and the split pin on the arm, has the flat side to the groove. Next, install the arm washer on the arm shaft.

D) Connect the piston and the con rod. The "spike" on the con rod and the triangle on the head of the piston should be pointing in the same direction.

E) Install the piston with the triangle pointing down towards the push rods hole. (If new piston rings are being fitted, please see instructions on the piston ring page prior to fitting in the engine.)

F) Install the crankshaft and attach the con rod with "spike" pointing downwards. Torque: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 9 lbf·ft)

G) Install valve lifter tappets just before the camshaft.

H) Install the camshaft. Be sure to line up the punch marks on the crankshaft and the camshaft. If you do not do this the spark plug will not fire at the correct time and 99% of the time causes extensive damage to the internal working of the engine.

I) Using the new crankcase gaskets replace the side plate. Do not reuse old gasket! Torque: 24 N·m (2.4 kgf·m, 17 lbf·ft) 

J) Carefully insert oil seals. Do not oil the oil seal prior to installation.

K) Fit the flywheel. Torque: 75 N·m (7.6 kgf·m, 55 lbf·ft)

L) Replace oil drain bolt and refill oil. Torque: 18 N·m (1.8 kgf·m, 13 lbf·ft)

M) Once the engine has been fully rebuilt, set your Valve Lash Clearances:

• Intake: 0.15-0.20 mm
• Exhaust: 0.20-0.30 mm

(Set smallest first. Open to larger setting if it runs rough.)

You will need a Feeler Gauge to set your Valve Lash Clearances. 

**Below is a great video that will guide you through setting the Valve Lash Clearances**

*Compatible part